Oil is an essential part of instruments, both brass and woodwinds. Yes, woodwinds use oil, just like brass players do, but the oil they use is applied far less frequently than brass. Usually it will be reapplied whenever the instrument goes into the shop for cleaning, and the moving parts will be oiled then.
As a brass player, oil is applied so frequently, it's worth knowing what you're putting on your valves and slides, and why. First and foremost, the main purpose of oil is not to make things move faster. This is a common misconception. THE REASON FOR OIL IS TO REDUCE WEAR AND OXIDATION OF THE METAL PARTS. END OF STORY. After cleaning valves or slides, they should move completely uninhibited. At that point, adding oil is only to prevent the metal surfaces from abrading each other, and from tarnishing in contact with air. Oxidized or tarnished metals take up more space, decreasing the tolerances between surfaces until the stick.
If your valves or slides are sticking and adding oil helps them move, it's time to clean the surfaces so that the old oil. Oil will dry out over time, regardless of how thick or thin it is. when it does, it stays on the surface and, just like tarnish, decreases the tolerances. Adding new oil only partially dissolves the old oil, but will also start to dry out the new, adding to the problem.
Once it's time to oil, there are a couple of options. I say a couple, because there really is only 2: Petroleum distillate and synthetic. That really is it.
Petroleum distillate is just that. Crude oil is refined and distilled like hard alcohol to get the liquid to the form for instrument use. There are hundreds upon hundreds of different brands, mixtures, and features in them all. However, they are essentially all the exact same. In my shop, just as at many shops, the techs all have small bottles they refill from a large jug. It says "VALVE OIL" on the side. it's the most standard oil based valve oil out there, nothing fancy, and odds are it's all you will need.
In blind tests, players were unable to tell the difference between any of these valve oils as far as functionality. That means that they all behave the exact same. Unless you have a reason for needing a higher viscosity oil, than standard valve oil is all you will need. And you'll know if you need it because there will be a special circumstance for needing it (vintage horn or something along those lines). It's a lot like different octanes at the gas pump. If your car needs anything other than the regular gas, the dealer or manufacturer of the car will tell you upfront before you put the wrong thing in. It's never a guessing game. Don't pay more for an oil than you truly need
Synthetics were created to combat two problems with oil. The first problem was the drying factor in oil. Synthetics don't dry out, they just work their way out. When this happens, there's no residue left behind like with petroleum, so there is no build up on the valves. However, when they are gone, they are truly gone, and the metal surfaces are exposed. The residue from petroleum will at least offer some protection from oxidation.
The other reason synthetics exist is to help with something that is a minor concern for some, the smell. There are many who don't like the smell of petroleum distillates at all. For some, it sets off their asthma. In those cases, synthetics are ideal because they are manufactured with no smell in them. Many petroleum distillates have perfumes to mask the smell, but it can actually be more pungent than the oil smell itself.
Regardless of which you chose, just now that these two options have one thing in common. They do not mix with each other. Each will react with the other and render it useless. Know which one you have, and either tell your technician or leave the bottle in the case so they can see. If you are planning on switching yourself, then you must thoroughly was all the previous oils out of your instrument to prevent a reaction.
When playing, the oil should be applied prior to any practice, rehearsal or performance. Then, it should be reapplied hourly. This should only be a drop or two at that point, to keep things as they need to be. This, along with a home cleaning monthly, will prevent wear and tarnish from sending your instrument to the shop more often than once a year or so.
No comments:
Post a Comment